You can highlight the rims conventionally (basecoating with Dawnstone and highlighting with Administratum Grey) or simply drybrush the whole tire with Dawnstone and call it a day.

Choosing the colours to use was quite difficult really as the 'Eavy Metal version is pretty much spot on in terms of balance and colour choice. I wanted my version to be different however so I settled for a similar colour palette but tweaked some of the nuances to make it unique and my own. There you go! As with the nmm tutorial I did this technique is faster than regular painting and I think it gave a good result. Pallid Bone is a bit warmer and softer than Skeleton Horde, Hardened Leather is very similar to Gore-grunta Fur, while Sand Golem is a warm light brown. Dark Wood is like a mix of Wyldwood and Cygor Brown. Crusader Skin is a bit more reddish than Guilliman Flesh.To give a bit of implication of different skin tones and states of decay on the zombies you can basically raid your washes for whatever will even vaguely tint the primer a bit. (note that thinning denser contrasts works quite well for this too) Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone.

I found that a coat of varnish helps to fix the problem, but you have to be careful, as the varnish can reactivate the Speedpaints as well. It’s quite annoying because it’s not an issue at all with Games Workshop’s Contrast paints and limits the Speedpaints’ usefulness because the reactivation issue also means that Speedpaints aren’t really suitable for glazing techniques. A single thinned down coat might be fine, but when you glaze multiple layers of Speedpaints over another the paint will reactivate and mess up all your careful glazing work. Multiple layers of glazing with Slaughter Red thinned with Speedpaint Medium Now the pattern on the band. These patterns are all the same across the regiments, so don’t worry about which one you’re painting. Unfortunately, while I can guide you a little in this process, there is no substitute for a practised steady hand and don’t be afraid to retouch your mistakes (I do, all the damn time). First carefully paint in Scale75 Blood Red lines at the bottom and the top of the band, extending about a third of the way up for each. They should both be the same height, and also leave an equal sized white gap between them. When you’re happy with them, draw in a line at 90 degrees to each, extending the same distance across as the first line was tall. Close off the square and then fill it. Leave an equal sized gap then do another, and another, until you have two rows of red squares running the length of the band. You should do this on the rear at the tie too, but honestly it can look a little messier there because the cloth is folded over itself. Magic Blue is a little darker and more intense than Talassar Blue, but with a little thinning it would be very similar. Highlord Blue is a little lighter and more of a prussian blue than Ultramarines Blue, while Cloudburst Blue is very similar to Leviathan Blue. In terms of turquoise, The Army Painter only has a single colour, Plasmatic Bolt, which is similar to Aethermatic Blue, but much deeper and darker. For this review I painted Contrast, Speedpaints, Instant Colors, and Antithesis paints on this sheet of plasticard that I primed with Corax White primer. I photographed them under 5500K neutral light to reproduce the colours as authentically as possible. As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots! Most of these colours will be the same as from the skeletons and zombies, mostly with stuff for fur and wings.

German Afrika Korps Citadel Contrast Painting Guide

Here’s where things go from colorful to technicolor, with the sashes, epaulettes, pompoms, shako cords, buttons, and more. For the buttons, just use the brass technique from the equipment section. On the particular models I painted, I found edge highlights to be better looking than drybrushing for the pompom and epaulettes, but your mileage may vary. For the sash on the sword, the pompom, epaulettes, and shako cord, I used the same green technique. One major upside to doing this is that the tiles already have an adhesive side. It’s not strong enough to hold a building so you’ll want to superglue those down, but it is strong enough to hold a layer of basing grit in place until you seal it. So start by laying that down, gluing down any details like plasticard panels or debris, then throw basing grit/sand on it and tap it off until you’ve got a solid layer. At this point I cover the whole thing with Woodland Scenics spray adhesive, AKA watered down PVA glue in a spray bottle. Coating the whole thing with this seals the model and keeps everything in place so I’m not constantly losing grit over time.

Since this is a board game with a bunch of mooks and I have other armies on the go already, I decided to go for simplicity other then a few things I thought would be fun. When doing the wood I only kind of go for highlights, mostly just streaks to indicate the grain of the wood, for the rakarth have it extremely thin too otherwise it will be overpowering. I used the militarum and elysian to give implication of moss or slime growing on the wood, but you could skip that. The sculpt is by Seb Perbet and it's my favourite character from the set i think. I love everything that's going on in the scene. It's a mini diorama really with the goblin tripping out on shrooms and seeing his visions come to life!Astra Militarum: The Astra Militarum, also known as the Imperial Guard, are a human army that relies on heavy tanks and artillery. Basilicanum Grey would be a great choice for painting their tanks and other vehicles, as well as any fortifications they might use. Paint mouth, elbows, and knees with thinned Army Painter Purple tone. I did this to give the model some definition and to add a little color into the scheme where Necrons: The Necrons are an ancient alien race that relies on a combination of advanced technology and reanimation protocols to achieve victory. Basilicanum Grey can be used to great effect on their vehicles and constructs, giving them a sleek and menacing appearance.

I also basecoated the hair, which varied from man to man. I mostly used Scale75 Mars Orange, Scale75 Brown Leather, Vallejo Brown Leather and Citadel Steel Legion Drab. Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see. Paint the trumpet white, then wash with your choice of yellow contrast paint. I chose Nazdreg yellow. Add another “scratchy” highlight of Formula P3 Bootstrap Leather [or mix more Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone into Rhinox Hide] to build up texture.I’ve converted up a New Zealand 3NZ Division for pacific games of bolt action ( Yes there were New Zealand infantry in the Pacific, you can read about them in this excellent book “Pacific Star” by Reg Newell), these were made with a mixture of Warlord Games British Infantry, US Marines and Chindit figures, along with North Star heads in forage caps. I’ve used Osprey’s The New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War II as a reference for these as well as photos in Pacific Star. New Zealand force being batch painted prior to base detailing and varnishing These areas were then edge highlighted with Dawnstone . On the barrel of the gun, I didn’t highlight any of the areas around the parts that would be glowing since that would get lost in the glow anyway. Overall, I really enjoyed the opportunity to paint each of the Traitor Legions, and I’ve added a new skill to my hobby arsenal. I’m very keen now to begin another new Legion, and hopefully, with what I’ve learned in the last few weeks I can speed paint an army to readiness and still maintain a great finishing standard.